Page 94 - Read Online
P. 94

Mataix et al. Plast Aesthet Res 2020;7:69  I  http://dx.doi.org/10.20517/2347-9264.2020.138                                    Page 11 of 16

               the specific nature of the external challenge applied. Similarly, exposure to Edafence® confers protection in
               keratinocytes and fibroblasts to moderate dehydration and hyperosmotic shock, improving viability in a
                                    [77]
               dose-dependent manner . These results suggest a genuine capability of Edafence® to counteract damaging
               stimuli, which likely extends to most elements in the skin aging exposome. Again, these in vitro studies
               further support the notion that Edafence-induced protection is durable (i.e., its effects continue after the
               exposure to the aqueous extract of Deschampsia antarctica and are comparatively higher upon longer
               exposure to damaging agents) and likely operates through integrated mechanisms, effective in the face of
               aggressions of different nature.


               Clinical studies on Edafence ®
               Bearing in mind the importance of correlating the in vitro and ex vivo findings with the potential in vivo
               relevance of these compounds, studies were conducted on the effect of topical preparations containing this
               extract on different parameters indicative of skin health and aging.

               A first set of studies [89,90]  explored the potential impact of this extract on skin aging under conditions of
               relatively high air pollution (metropolitan Rome at different times of the year). Milani et al. [89,90]  reported
               improvement of skin barrier function (as inferred by transepidermal water loss measurements), reduction
               of squalene peroxidation ratios, and enhanced visual appearance as assessed by high-resolution digital
                                                                                                       [89]
               imaging. Of note, these studies covered conditions of both high particulate air pollution (winter season )
                                                [90]
               and elevated O  levels (summer season ).
                            3
               An additional recent study examined the impact of topic administration of Edafence-containing
               preparations on features indicative of general skin aging, among a homogeneous population (female,
                                                                             [91]
               Caucasian with Fitzpatrick’s Skin Types III and IV, aged 45-65 years) . Quantitative measurement of
               features such as wrinkling (transient reduction ranging 20%-30% after four-week treatment, as evaluated
               quantitatively using digital imaging), firmness, and elasticity (up to 41.7% and 12.8% improvement,
               respectively, after 12-week treatment) indicated a positive effect of this extract on skin health and even
               moderate repair of aged skin, together with remarkable subjective improvement reported by tested subjects
               (100% of subjects stated significant improvement in skin texture and brightness) and tolerance of the
               relatively high-dose preparations . This preliminary research encourages larger studies investigating
                                            [91]
               the potential synergy with concomitant interventions such as nutraceuticals, moisturizing creams, and
               sunscreen preparations. Taken together, these studies support that the aqueous extract of Deschampsia
               antarctica, in combination with antioxidants and retinoids (products formulated by Cantabria Labs), bears
               potent anti-aging activity through the improvement of skin barrier integrity and function, normalizing skin
               tone and counteracting oxidative stress in polluted urban zones. These observations are in agreement with
               the aforementioned body of in vitro and ex vivo research outlining the biological basis of the protective
               potential of Edafence® against external aggressive factors.


               CONCLUSION
               The critical impact exerted by environmental factors on skin and organism health is best understood within
               the integrated framework provided by the exposome concept. Accordingly, our search for preventive and/
               or therapeutic antiaging and antixenotic solutions should ideally aim for products conferring protection
               against a wide array of damaging agents. Edafence® may fit this objective: it confers protection against
               environmental stressors in urban areas and prevents different clinical signs of skin aging (e.g., dehydration,
               wrinkles, hyperpigmentation). Different experimental models, including advanced systems approximating
               in vivo skin architecture and complexity, support its activity on counteracting cell and tissue damage from
               different stressors such as ionizing radiation, toxic compounds, tobacco, or natural aging. On the basis
               of the observations outlined here [Table 1], future studies will shed light on the mechanistic basis of its
   89   90   91   92   93   94   95   96   97   98   99